The Verdant Beat Archive

Taquile: A different kind of Carnival

A Tale of Two Islands
By Andrew Whalen

Trading beer for coca leaves with our new friend Bernardo and clapping my hands to the beat as a sea of dancers twirled, bobbed, and weaved in the main plaza on the island of Taquile, I realized that we’d stumbled on something special. There are two rules I’ve found true while traveling in the Andes: the locals are as stoic and difficult to befriend as they are said to be, and you as a tourist are typically seen as a potential source of income before all else. High up on Lake Titicaca, the island Taquile broke both those rules. Unfortunately, our spin through Uros islands (map) on the way back to the mainland put them right back in place.

The rules are the rules for a reason. The Andean region is one of the poorest in South America, and this poverty, the barren landscape, and the history of colonization have left their mark on the people. Meanwhile, hundreds of thousands of tourists flood the region each year, to drink in the beauty of Machu Picchu citadel, the sapphire blue waters of Lake Titicaca, the Bolivian salt flats, and dozens of other spectacular travel sites. It should be a major generator of local wealth, right? Not quite. Like all other lucrative industries down here, foreigners and local elites run the show. Cuzco is, again, a prime example. The British company Orient-Express owns the only rail service up to the famed Inca sanctuary of Machu Picchu and the only hotel located next to the ruins. Foreigners and carpetbaggers from Peru’s capital of Lima also own most of the tourist agencies that run treks up to Machu Picchu. I remember doing a story on the porters of Cuzco’s Inca trail and asking one of the Quechua Indians what he’d be doing if he weren’t hefting tents, trekkers’ baggage, and entire kitchens up and down stony mountain paths. He said back home, subsistence farming. “Up here there are only two economies: tourism and nothing.” Currently, there is a movement in the travel industry away from outside exploitation toward local-controlled sustainable tourism – known as community tourism, eco-tourism, eco-ethno-tourism, CO2rism in rainforests and more, depending on your pleasure. In the Andean region, this means putting control of the industry in the hands of local Indians. Taquile and Uros displayed both those extremes.

It was surprisingly difficult to get to Taquile, despite the fact the island was celebrating its carnival festival. All of the local tour agencies only ran overnight tours to the island of Amantaní, with a few hour stop the next day in Taquile. We missed the only community ferry to Taquile that left at 9 a.m., so we had to jump a boat mid-lake and pay extra to get there. Arriving in Taquile, we were surprised by how few tourists were there for the carnival. Our 2005 Rough Guide called Taquile the most popular island on the Peruvian side of Titicaca. We started asking around for hostels, only to find that Taquile played the whole tourism game by a different book. With no hostels in sight at first glance, we decide to grab lunch and ask around. Just 15 minutes after I asked the lunch joint’s owner about lodging, a spry, pleasant man dressed in traditional Spanish peasant clothing decorated with hand-woven Andean textiles – an outfit Taquileños adopted in colonial times – introduced himself as Jesus and said we would be staying in his home with his wife Esperanza, “Hope,” and their two children. It wasn’t until a few hours later, when a local schoolteacher turned politician, enter Bernardo, shoved coca leaves in my mouth and Pisco down my throat and decided to take me under his wing in the heat of the Carnival festivities that I got an explanation of what the heck was going on.

Taquile had been an early model for community-based tourism, explained Bernardo. As long as he could remember, islanders had rotated hosting tourists in their homes and also pooled sales of their UNESCO anointed textiles, sharing the bounty of the industry according to the ancient Quechua values of collectivism, ayni and ayllu. A Taquile representative recruited tourists in Puno and brought them over on a community-run ferry in the morning, and then delivered them to the family they were to stay with on the island. But Taquileños lost their grip on the industry in recent years, Bernardo described grimly, after agencies run by outsiders worked out a deal to bring  tourists to Amantaní. That left Taquile – which refused to let the agencies control profits and prices – as an afternoon trip on the way back from Amantaní to the mainland. Taquile still runs its morning ferry to the island, but the islanders get beat by the professional agencies’ advertising and sheer manpower in pushing their package to backpackers in hostels and at the local pier. Thanks to that sad turn of events, negotiations with the agencies had come to define the island’s politics, Bernardo explained, and that was the main reason why he, deputy mayor of one of the island’s six communities, wanted to run for a big promotion: mayor.

Local politics aside, Taquile is probably the most original, welcoming, and non-Western corners of Peru I’ve found as a traveler, not to mention one of the most beautiful and clean. The islanders took us in with open arms and let us participate, learn, and mix with the locals during one of their most important religious festivals, no questions asked. There was none of the begging for money off tourists or angry haggling with locals trying to give travelers the “gringo price” (take the local price and double it) that can be so common in other parts of South America. I firmly believe that this is not only due to the fact that Taquile is separated from the rest of Peru by a big blue lake, but also has everything to do with the islanders’ knowledge that the community controls the local industry and that the entire island shares in its benefit.

We were sorry to leave Jesus and Esperanza’s home the next day, but once we did, we decided to swing by the Uros floating islands. We had missed them on the way out in our hurry to get to Taquile. The famed floating islands, made of matted reeds on floating sod, have long been one of Lake Titicaca’s main attractions. But our reception was like night and day compared to Taquile. As soon as we were dropped off at one family’s floating home, the family’s unbathed children started crawling all over us. As their parents sat in the background, uninterested, the girls launched into a little routine: they would curtsy, smile, and say “take a picture!” and as soon as you did, they would stick out their hands for money. Once that got old – we stopped taking the pictures – they started a song and dance routine that ended with the same hand-extended pose. Over the din, we finally convinced one of the elders to give us an explanation of the islands’ origins. He whipped out a laminated poster showing how the islands float, and ran quickly through an uninspired presentation on the Uros with one of the young boys acting as his assistant. Of course, when it was over the boy came over and stuck his hand out for money. The whole experience was a huge shock coming from Taquile, where we’d played with Jesus and Esperanza’s son Edgar all day, laughing with him as he tried to film us with Mike’s video camera and snapping pictures of him and his friends posing in the plaza, with nary a mention of money. It was all out of a genuine, mutual interest in getting to know how each others’ world worked.

We were so put off by the Uros islands that we decided we couldn’t wait another two hours for the communal ferry to go back to the mainland. So we paid a gentleman from the neighboring floating island to taxi us back in his fishing boat. It turned out José, our boat driver, was actually not an Uros Indian, but a Quechua from northern Peru. He had married a woman from Puno and moved to Uros to open a fish restaurant and hostel on the island. We asked him if all the islands were as touristy as the one we just visited and he scoffed. Nope, he said, only five of the 35 Uros communities host tourists. Everyone else refuses them, he said with a smile and a shake of his head that made you know he thought their decision to refuse tourists was both foolish and to his benefit. It was the smile of a certain type of person known here as a vivo: those street-wise Peruvians who know how to make a quick buck and will dance around scruples with a smile to do so. Just then I was struck by a tidbit from the elder Uros’ presentation: that the Uros migrated onto the floating islands centuries ago to escape assimilation into the dominant Quechua and Aymara cultures. As we motored back to shore in a boat driven by a Quechua, dodging the wake of a big white ferry whisking another boatload of tourists off to the floating islands, I thought to myself that I couldn’t blame those Uros who refused to host tourists.

Awash in Tradition, Drowned in Color:
Carnival in Taquile
By Drew Straus

To my right, a pile of corn, beans, and dried fish cover a blanket laid on the cobbled floor of the courtyard, as women pour the food from their brightly colored knapsacks. Meanwhile other members of the community dig into the food by the fistful. Across from me an elderly woman rests her head on a relative, crying while wailing a monosyllabic tune. To my left, a drummer continues to play the ubiquitous beat of the day, too drunk to notice that the party is on break. I’m on the island of Taquile for Carnival, one of their biggest festival days of the year. We’ve danced our way to the community center of one of the seven communities of Taquile after being taken under the wing of Bernardo, a leader of that community. Moments before, Bernardo jovially handed Andy his scepter-like baton, a symbol of his authority as community leader. For a few awkward moments, Andy held on to the baton, before a horrified woman noticed and snatched the baton back for the swaying Bernardo. On festival day: community ritual, endless dancing, bright colors, and an island imbibed and imbibing.

We started out our day in the town of Puno, Peru, on the west shore of Lake Titicaca. After a confused exchange at the port, we finally took the 3-hour boat to Taquile, an island in the middle of Lake Titicaca. From the approach, Taquile looked like a giant whale on the surface of the water. One big hill dominated the north side and then gently sloped down to the flattened west side. Getting closer, the whale became ridged as the agricultural terraces that cover the island came into focus.

Once on the island, we climbed up to the town square. Along the cobble path, neat stone houses with corrugated steel roofs marked a striking contrast to much of rural Peru where the houses are made of dust-colored adobe and brick, and often look on the verge of crumbling. Another notable feature of the houses was that most of them had a solar panel on their roofs, since Taquile has no other source of electricity. This also meant that the island has no electrical wire or towering telephone poles to mar the pristine sky. The main square sits in the center of a cluster of taller stone buildings and narrow cobbled alleys and opens on one side to a cliff and the lake.

The day was blazingly bright and was amplified by the surrounding water. Talking to some locals we discovered that today was the first and most important day of Carnival. The seven communities of Taquile were slowly making their way to the central square where the festival would take place. Already in the distance we could hear many flutes and drums slowly growing louder. While we awaited their arrival, we discovered the amazing textiles of Taquile. Named a World Cultural Heritage in 2005 by UNESCO, Taquile’s textiles are brightly colored and intricately patterned. The figures depicted in the woven belts and scarves represent important aspects of life on Taquile. One type of belt is even a calendar. We would later discover the textiles are woven on looms made out of interlocking branches. Shortly afterwards we got to see the textiles in full action.

The first of the communities of Taquile paraded into the main square in a whirl of color and a flurry of flutes. The women were dressed in many layers of skirts each a different electric shade: blue, green, orange, yellow, and red. On their backs they wore crimson woven knapsacks. The men wore black pants and shirt; everything else was a blaze of color. Their belts, knit hats, and shawls were all covered with intricate loud patterns. Each wore many small, brightly striped bags, tasseled in neon rainbow. The men in the community each played an instrument. Drums of many sizes tolled out a 20 second beat, accompanied by a wide variety of flutes, some almost as tall as the player, as well as whistles, ox horns, and conches all playing the same 20 second melody, which was repeated, without stop or diminished gusto, throughout the entire day. The women danced along to the music with quick small steps. At the crescendo of the rhythm, the women all spun braided ropes covered in balls of colored string over their heads while twirling in unison.

The other communities arrived in the main square one by one, each claiming a section of the plaza. While all the communities played the same melody and rhythm, they made no attempt to synchronize with each other. As the square filled to capacity, the groups slowly circled the plaza with the effect of a gentle cacophony of clashing flutes, irregular drums, and spinning colors with the backdrop of a brilliant vast lake and the barely visible mountains on the shore.

We rapidly discovered the source of the seemingly limitless energy of the people of Taquile. Each bag or pouch contained a bottle of pisco and an ample supply of coca leaves. The mayor emerged from the town hall with fanfare, bringing with him crates upon crates of beer and an enormous mound of coca leaves, which he laid out on a table above the square for the enjoyment of the community. Watching from the sides of the square, we began talking with two men from Taquile both surreally named Cesar. We quickly found ourselves pulled into the party as we shared beer and pisco, which they drank by draining full cups (or caps in the case of pisco) before passing it on to the next person. The feel of the day had changed as we were brought around and introduced to other festival-goers, usually (and much to our surprise) by being taken by the hand from one group to another.

The tone of the festival, I realized, though heavy on traditions, was lighthearted -thoroughly about the enjoyment of the communities of Taquile. This realization somewhat relieved my creeping suspicion that, dressed in preppy shorts, a striped shirt, and a straw hat, I was at least an eye-sore if not a turntable stopping, toe stomping, all out party-crasher. Interestingly, as we continued our somewhat bewildered rounds with the Cesars, we were introduced only to other men. Almost uniformly, we were welcomed to Taquile and offered something to drink, even from the older members of the community with whom there was no common language other than a sly nod at an outheld bottle. The most common topic of the day (aside from some brief “we love beer too!” formalities) was how much the people we were able to talk to loved Obama.

Soon the dancers prepared for the inter-community dance-off, judged by the mayor. Up until this point, I had been entirely unable to tell the difference between the garb of the members of the seven communities. While the dance competition went on, I noticed small distinctions, a style of hat or a particular color of ribbon in the hair worn only by one community. I should mention that this was the only distinguishing factor about the dance competition. All the communities performed exactly the same tune, rhythm, and dance moves as before, this time just one group at a time. A winner was declared (God knows how) and we ended up standing near the area reserved for the island officials.

Bernardo, one of the island officials, began talking to us and offering coca. Taking a liking to Andy, whom he wanted as his assistant on his run for Peruvian congress, Bernardo pulled Andy by the hand over to where a group of whirling, fluting, Taqilians were making their way out of the plaza. The rest of us followed and soon I found myself marching through the cobbled streets and down the hill with a huge marching band drum strapped to my stomach and no idea where we were going. We took turns trying to get the beat down right before we were stripped of our drum and Bernardo motioned us up a hill towards a large stone building.

Without realizing it, we had been invited back to Bernardo’s community. The building was the community center and in the courtyard, the dancing and playing continued. At this point, almost everyone in the community was so inebriated that no one noticed the women bouncing off walls or the flute players who had moved on to play their own solos. As I sat down and the evening meal was laid down on a blanket to my right I realized that this was the most colorful, probably highest participation level party I’d seen unfold. As a place not too far off the tourist map, I was surprised by how few tourists were there and, likely in turn, the openness of the people of Taquile.

I should mention too the wonder of the couple that we stayed with for our night at Taquile. Jesus and Esperanza run a wonderful B&B in addition to being the most impressively named couple in Peru.

We join the party. Hail Cesars!

“Bout that time, eh chaps?” “righto

Many layered skirts of Taquile women

The many bags of the Taquile men. All filled with booze & coca leaves.

We bring the funk.

Potatoes, beans, fish, salsa, and other Andean goodies: the holy spread of Taquile’s Carnival.

Rockpile #2: at the top of Taquile’s highest peak.

Up and Down Colca Cañon

During much of our driving into Colca Canyon, across a high pass, I thought it was raining out, at least a little bit. Small rivulets of water kept running down the windshield so I figured it was doing something out. Finally, near the peak our windshield became extremely cloudy every time we used the windshield wipers. As I went to clean off the windshield, I realized to my horror that there was no rain, mist, hail, or other precipitation. I touched the windshield and discovered that vegetable oil was leaking out of one of our reserve tanks that we store on the roof of the car and coating the entire front of the windshield.

Veggie oil sunset. Rivulets of oil after our spare tub sprung a leak on our roof

After creeping down the rest of the hill, we arrived, covered in veggie oil, in the town of Chivay before heading to the town of Yanque to stay at the home of Reth, our friend from Arequipa. Both towns have primarily cobblestone streets arrayed around a tree-lined central plaza.

View from la casa de Reth

After what felt like a quick nap, we woke up at 3am to visit a reservoir project by an NGO called DESCO in the highlands above the Colca River canyon. Lack of water supply and sanitation is a serious problem for Peru, which costs the country more than $1 billion annually. It’s a problem environmentalists warn could worsen as climate change melts tropical glacier and shifts rainfall levels across regions. The Peruvian government has promised to heavily invest in reservoirs up and down Peru’s desert coast to mitigate the potential costs of climate change, so we tagged along with DESCO to check out some of their pilot projects. We found their approach to be extremely interesting. Water reservoirs are not enough to stabilize the water supply on their own, they found, because they encourage migration back up to the highlands and overgrazing by alpaca and llama herded in the region. Overgrazing consequently leads to a drop in vegetation and soil quality, which reduces the ecosystems natural ability to retain water. Thus, Desco came up with a two-pronged approach: couple investments in small-scale water reservoirs and canals with capacity training to teach communities how to breed alpaca to produce more and finer wool. The idea is, if each alpaca produces better wool, individual families will need less of them, overgrazing won’t happen and the water supply will be improved. For more info, check out their website at (Spanish speakers only).

The women on each side of the valley wear their own distinctive style of hat.

Friday market finest.

On our return we were taken to two remarkable stops. First we stopped in the town of Callalli on what happened to be their market day. People from all over the area had come to town donned in their finest. The women were wearing particularly colorful dresses with intricate patterns in bright hues of green, pink, red, yellow and blue. The defining feature of the women’s outfits were their distinct hats, which fell into two types, a brightly colored fedora or a flat top hat with a large cloth flower on the side. Second, we went past a locally famous spot known as what translates to the Mystical Castle. Out of the top of a hill rose, almost straight up, a rock formation that looked like a set of serpentine walls.

The mystical castle

Flatbed montage from water reservoirs above Colca: Coca chewers & windblown hair

On the following day, joined by Reth, we visited Colca Canyon. The canyon is one of the deepest canyons on the planet.  At 10,725 ft deep, it is more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon. Viewed from the top, the Colca River, which runs along the bottom of the canyon, is little more than a faint line. We spent the morning at Condor Point or Cruz del Condor (a slightly odd translation, we know), one of the deepest parts of the canyon and a great place to spot condors that slowly rise out of the depths. With a wingspan of up to 10.5 ft, these huge birds rarely flap their heavy wings, and instead circle gently looking for hot air currents rising along the walls of the canyon.

Condor Point. Colca is more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon

Madrigal and Lari pueblos huddled above pre-Inca terracing, also known as Andenes

The peaks of Ampato and Sabancaya tower over a sunny Colca landscape

Drew pondering the abyss

Cabanaconde: top of the world. Place of legend. From there we began our 1800m decent to the floor of the canyon. It went like this. At the bottom, alongside the river, were several similar lodges. Ours, the Paraiso lodge, was just about right – simple thatch cabins, a communal lounge/dining area, and a crisp, cool pool built with a giant boulder forming one of its walls. A visit to the river revealed relatively calm, slightly brownish water, which was hard to imagine as partially responsible for the massive canyon. As Reth explained to us, upriver a series of locks were built in 1970 to feed the giant reservoir we had seen from Callali and to keep the river’s flow down especially during the rainy season when the river swells massively. We were viewing the river during a calm period. During the rainy season, its rapids are so intense that it remained an unconquered rafting challenge until the 1980s.

The descent: 1800m from Cabanaconde to Paraiso Lodge at the bottom of Colca Canyon

Our return climb, though strenuous, was somehow less body abusing than the descent. Upon reaching the top, we went to the thermal baths at Chivay. Set alongside the river, the baths are in a tile and stone building with one very strange feature: they have separate baths for foreigners and locals. Thus, as our host put it, we ended up ‘bañando en sopa de gringos,’ bathing in gringo soup.

Reth & the crew after the grueling return to Cabanaconde. 2:20 from bottom to top

Mike showing some victory skin, Whalens gently perspiring. Some subtle good touch bad touch with a rock

Rock towers abound at the viewpoint above Chivay. Our instant classic.

Written by Drew Straus

Photos by Elliot Whalen

Where We Come From, Where We’re Going

-By Andrew Whalen. Photos by Elliot Whalen

Travel has never been easier than for us 21st century kids, or more complicated. Sometime between Starbucks’ assault on the Forbidden City (and let’s not forget the reach of Micky D’s, especially since they’ve reached Cuzco) and the release of “An Inconvenient Truth,” the institution of globe-trotting revealed its true nature as a double-edged sword. While I still believe the cross-cultural understanding fostered by global travel outweighs its negatives, we can no longer ignore that travel by airplane, bus, train, and car is a major contributor to greenhouse gas emissions and that globalization gone wrong can homogenize and crowd out the very far-flung cultures we go to such lengths to see. Of course, being the conscientious young folk we are, we decided our grand South American adventure must have the daintiest footprint possible. On the cultural front, we figured that with some pre-trip research, constant vigilance against the inner jackass, and a little charm, we’d come out in the black. Emissions proved a more adept adversary, but the match has been an excellent teacher. Thus began our ongoing education in alternative energy.

Researching alternatives to a fossil-fuel powered road trip, we quickly ruled out electrical cars. We figured we didn’t have the greenbacks to pay for one and that recharging would be difficult in a region of underdeveloped national electrical grids. Meanwhile, Drew had heard about a guy who drove around the world using vegetable and animal oils and anything he could get his hands on for fuel, including the fat of a pig he was forced to boil down while stranded in some far flung mountain village where he couldn’t come up with anything else. Ever the suckers for adventure and pigs, the rest of us were sold on biofuel almost immediately. It couldn’t be just any biofuel, we decided. It had to come from used vegetable oil or nothing at all.  Why used vegetable oil? Well, watching the food vs. fuel debate play out during the 2008 global food price spike, and how the race for biofuels had unintended consequences down here in the Amazon, we decided the whole growing your fuel thing was too messy – not to mention impractical for on-the-move vagabonds.

Once we knew our car would run on used vegetable oil, our only problem was that we had no idea how to run our car on used vegetable oil. Thankfully Al Gore built the oracle, and upon consulting it we discovered an entire community of like-minded individuals dedicated to doing just such a thing. The oracle told Drew of a biofuel guru in the Bay Area that went by the name of Girl Mark and sent us out to scour the crunchiest corners of Berkeley, California to find her. Find her we did not, but at the Biofuel Oasis co-op fueling station, we found the next best thing: Maria “Mark” Alovert’s Biodiesel Homebrew Guide Edition 10.5: “Everything you need to know to make quality alternative diesel fuel out of waste restaurant fryer oil.”

While Mark’s guide would become our biofuel bible, Biofuel Oasis also gave us a first-hand view of how biodiesel from recycled vegetable oil could work on a large scale. As we examined the gas station’s charming biofuel book and souvenir shop, we watched card-carrying members of the station’s collective come and go, filling their tanks with biodiesel produced from used vegetable oil collected at restaurants all around the city.

As the friendly fueling station attendees explained, and we later researched at length in our new bible, we had two options for running our car on used oil. The first is home-brewing our own biodiesel in a process called transesterification. Though it sounds scary and torturous, it’s relatively straightforward. The equation goes something like this: react methanol with used vegetable oil, using sodium hydroxide or lye as a catalyst, and you get biodiesel and a few byproducts including glycerol and household soap. For a walk through of the process courtesy of Kenyi García Cervantes, head chemist at Reth Córdova del Carpio’s EPA, see the short film we’ve posted above. We briefly considered finding a way to do the chemical reaction on the fly, perhaps involving a washing machine mounted on a bicycle as a rustic, transportable reactor to mix veggie oil and methoxide (another Drew special courtesy of “some guy at MIT” who ignored our emails). We dropped the idea pretty quick once we had a close look at the time-consuming process and decided it didn’t jive with our impatient itinerary. It was a good thing too, as we were later told that methanol can be hard to come by in these parts.

The second option was to install a straight vegetable oil conversion system, or SVO system, in our car and run it on unmodified used vegetable oil. The ease of collecting oil from restaurants and dumping it straight into a second tank installed in our car was very appealing for a long road trip, so we started researching companies that manufacture the kits, and looking into how the hell we were going to get one of them down to Lima and installed in a car. Thankfully, while the oracle had sent Drew and me to Berkeley, it had firmly deposited Sr. Kote in a far corner of the worldwide web dedicated entirely to all things Volkswagon. There, by a stroke of good fortune, young Miguelcito found the car we were all born to drive: a campervan equipped with a straight vegetable oil system installed by Plantdrive in British Colombia, beds to sleep four, a minifridge, and a stove, on its way to Santiago, Chile. A jolly Canadian-American couple drove her down from the Pacific Northwest, through the lower 48, then Mexico and Central America, shipped her across the Darien Gap, with plans to hawk her off and use the money to start up a hostel and live happily every after in Buenos Aires, Rio, or some happening Latin locale.

Thus, we became the proud owner of Mango, the omnivore campervan. I say omnivore because of the essential trick that enables the SVO to function: we start the car up on diesel for about five minutes to give the fuel system, modified during installation, enough time to heat up and thin the used vegetable oil to the viscosity of petroleum diesel. Before we turn the car off we also run it on diesel for about five minutes, to flush the system of veggie oil. Veggie oil is thicker than diesel, and if put straight into your car’s tank without thinning, it can leave heavy carbon deposits that wear on your engine or precipitate instant mechanical death. And of course, before we put the used oil into our second tank we have to filter it to remove chunks of French fry, chicken, or whatever else our donor restaurants felt like frying up. Obviously, we try to rotate cuisines with our donor restaurants, to keep Mango’s B.O. from getting monotonous.

A lot of people are shocked when we tell them we are running our car on used vegetable oil, either because they had never heard of biofuels at all, or they had heard of refined biodiesel but never of running an engine on 100% unmodified, used veggie oil. To keep those conversations quick and not boring, I’ve come up with a few fun facts about the diesel engine, provided by, who else, Miss Mark: an early version of the diesel engine displayed at the 1918 world fair ran on peanut oil from French African colonies, several countries used vegetable oil to replace or extend petroleum diesel on the homefront during WWII, and crackpot homebrewers have been experimenting with second, veggie oil tanks in their cars in the Northern hemisphere since the 1970s oil shocks.

Another question we tend to get is whether it’s been hard to convince restaurants to give us oil. Unlike the U.S., where restaurants change their cooking oil frequently, restaurants down here may not change the cruddy oil that dishes up your French fries and chicken nuggets for months. Poorer and less educated regions also don’t have the environmental consciousness to properly dispose of the oil, so when they do get rid of it they dump it in the sewer, causing serious problems for urban water supplies. Despite all this, on average, we’ve struck greasy gold at the third or fourth restaurant we try for oil. We’ve got a full schpiel that gets better with age, especially since we printed Verdant Collective business cards, and set up a restaurant owner photo blog on our site. It also helped when we ditched the 30 cent pollerias for more upscale restaurants, which are more likely to change their oil frequently, save it for proper disposal, and invite us to a chilled beverage when we lay on the charm especially thick.

Lastly, we are often asked if used veggie oil is carbon neutral. Plantdrive, the company that installed our system, claims that “SVO is a carbon dioxide neutral fuel since plants capture CO2 and then it is released again when the oil from the plants is burned.” I’ll let you be the judge of that. Like any fuel burned in combustion engine, waste vegetable oil emits carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and other pollutants, but as you can see in plant drive’s graph, particulate matter or soot content in waste veggie oil emissions is much lower than regular diesel. Is waste oil the end all solution to climate change and energy consumption? Of course not. For us, fueling our road trip with veggie oil is all about making people revisit their assumptions about waste, recycling, and energy consumption. As a U.S.-style consumer economy spreads across the world, finding multiple uses for our limited resources and so-called waste has never been more urgent, and recycling is a practice we can no longer think of as an uninvolved, hands-off activity. Again, we’re no experts or engineers, but we can hope to inspire.

So that’s our whole biodiesel shebang. Now that I’ve put you through all this, I’ll inform you that while straight vegetable oil is an alternative fuel source, it is not technically biodiesel. It has to be refined through the transesterification process to carry that namesake. But you know, details. If you do choose to follow in our footsteps and install an SVO system in your vehicle, be warned that it provides mechanics with an easy, and undeserving scapegoat when their fixes go awry. We’re told this is worse in the States, where dealership mechanics fear what they don’t understand.

For those looking to follow in Reth’s footsteps and start up your own backyard biodiesel refinery, or even a local green business, here are a few websites:,,, and

Reth & Peru’s EPA

While in Arequipa, we decided to go hunting for a biodiesel company that had gotten a little bit of publicity in Lima’s newspapers. We had read that the company collected used vegetable oil from local restaurants and was looking into promoting the fuel for the city’s buses and combivans as a few cities, such as San Francsico, have done. I expected an informal, overall-wearing organization of young environmentalists. When we pulled our van into the right lot, alongside a swath of more likely mechanics & tire stores, we were greeted instead by an upscale office building and a lobby full of architectural models & hanging plants. From the lobby, we were led to an office filled with models of cars, trucks, and things that go. It was the office of Reth Córdova del Carpio, one of two brothers running Holding Quimera, a collection of diverse enterprises from waste management to hotel development.

The biodiesel company is a piece of one of those enterprises, under the larger environmentally focused venture, called, by coincidence, the Empresa de Protección Ambiental or EPA.  The EPA is Reth’s pet project, attempting to improve environmental conditions in Arequipa through a number of recycling and safe waste disposal projects. Among it’s more ambitious projects is a plan to build Arequipa’s first toxic waste treatment facility. Currently, the project has been stalled by a number of bureaucratic roadblocks. In the meantime, toxic waste goes untreated and ends up primarily in rivers in and surrounding Arequipa. Peru has only one toxic waste treatment site, and of course, it’s up in Lima. Other projects include recycling used tires and used motor oil, which otherwise is often illegally burned as fuel, a heavily polluting activity.

The biodiesel project is an attempt to recycle the biggest pollutant of Arequipa’s rivers, cooking oil, while making available a cleaner diesel fuel. Most cooking oil is simply poured down the drain after it has been used. Reth and his team have placed barrels around the city at willing restaurants to collect used cooking oil which is then processed and turned into biodiesel usable in any diesel vehicle. The biodiesel they produce gets an average of 5 km/gallon better than standard diesel and releases about half the pollutants by eliminating the presence of metals like lead in the exhaust.

Sadly, the EPA’s biofuel initiative is limited by inertia among restaurant owners and a black market for cooking oil. While the process of disposing used cooking oil in EPA containers is as easy as dumping it down the drain, many restaurant owners see no reason to change their practices. Furthermore, there is a black market for used cooking oil. Restaurants that change their vegetable oil with some regularity can sell their cooking oil to less expensive restaurants (particularly in Lima) who continue to use the oil, posing a serious health risk. As a result, the EPA collects less than 300 gallons a month of used vegetable oil, while they could easily be processing 3,000-6,000 gallons. Currently, the biodiesel is used for company cars, but once used oil collection reaches a higher level, the fuel will be commercially available. Reth believes that a major component of the solution is greater education of environmental issues in schools as well as an awareness campaign for the general population of Arequipa.

While telling us about the EPA, Reth is animated. A self-made man, Reth has reached a point in his career where he can work on projects with a broad social scope and he is clearly excited about the potential of the EPA. He is open as well about the frustration of attempting to change the practices of a city with little education on sustainability.  As Arequipa undergoes a transformation to a modern and booming city, Reth’s focus on environmental issues is timely and essential.

The following morning Reth takes us to his biodiesel workshop, which takes up a small building in a lot jammed with tires, newspapers, and car parts all waiting to be recycled. A chemical engineer, Kenyi, walks us through the process of making biodiesel through the tranestherification, which involves multiples steps to removing any cooking residues and oddly leaves behind a substance that looks surprisingly like fancy cheese.

If you’re interested in helping the EPA create the first commercially available source of recycled biofuels in Arequipa, Peru and helping promote recycling in the city in general along with initiating plans for public education of sustainability, you can contact Reth at

-Drew, Photos by Elliot

Hans & Marry Open Their Doors

We have a little pride about our car. It’s old enough to feel classic. It’s got a stove, two beds, runs on vegetable oil, and loves us back. When we pulled up on the beach at Puerto Inca, I saw what truly loving your car looks like. Looming above us was a cobalt blue truck and on its back what looked like the truck version of a quaint cabin. It wasn’t until the following morning that we got up the courage to go to talk to the owners, an older, distinguished looking couple, as they were lying on the beach. Warm and inviting, we soon got the back story on their amazing vehicle and a tour of the inside of their home.

Hans & Marry Stöpler are from a small town near Rotterdam, Netherlands. Hans, a former PE teacher and his wife Marry, decided in their retirement to travel thoroughly around the world and to do it in style. Around 20 years ago, Hans bought the cab of a ’60s Mercedes truck with a classic design and beautiful rounded lines. From there he decided, with the help of a mechanic friend, to take on building out the ultimate mobile home. The interior of the truckcabin is all wood native to Australia where their son lives. The seats in the front cab are covered with zebra stripes. From the cab you go through a round porthole in the back living space. Originally a metal rectangle built by Hans, the entire surface has been covered in the same wood and designed much like a boat. Two beds stacked and pivoted 90 degrees made of carved wood, take up the back wall. The kitchen has many round drawers and a small stovetop, and the kitchen table is a giant wood chessboard.

The exterior of the car is a deep cobalt blue and is covered in stickers from their many sponsors. Strapped to the car are various lights, horns, gadgetry, and on the back, two dirt bikes, another passion of this amazing couple.

After retiring, Hans & Marry, have shipped their truckcabin to a different continent once every few years to slowly explore. Their original trip was to Africa, starting in South Africa and making their way north. This time, they shipped their vehicle to Buenos Aires and had already been on the road a year when we met them. Clearly used to a bit of attention, Hans and Marry dish out advice on where to go, and share photos of the construction of their home. When asked about their adventures they talk not only about the spectacular places they have visited but also about some of the challenges: exotic car troubles, a bit too much attention from police, and persistent theft – a fair warning to us younger travelers.

Meeting Hans & Marry was also a reminder to keep in mind how much broader the range of choices available is than I normally think. Although sometimes at the cost of routine comforts, it is a remarkable example that this couple has done so for the sake of their strong instincts and imagination.


Mystery and bad omens left by Peru’s Nazca civilization

The mysterious Nazca lines are a series of giant geoglyphs left in one of Peru’s southern deserts by the pre-Inca, Nazca culture (200 BC to 700 AD). Best visible by air, the enormous monkeys, condors, spiders, and other animals have puzzled scholars for decades while helping fuel bad movies about alien intervention in pre-Colombian America (my theory is Spielberg only makes good movies in odd numbered years). For more serious analysis of the purpose the geoglyphs served, check out and the work of Maria Reiche, the “Lady of the Lines.

The cheap way to see Nasca. You see fewer geoglyphs, but avoid the hassle of small aircraft . Make sure you do your research and fly with a good company if you do fly.

One thing scientists do think they finally have figured out about Nazca for sure, is how the civilization that created the geoglyphs managed to kill itself off. And the theory does not bode well for us 21st century kids.

A study by Dr David Beresford-Jones at Cambridge University’s McDonald Institute for Archaeological Research reports that the Nazca peoples hurried along their own demise by razing groves of huarango trees integral to the desert ecosystem they inhabited. The huarango, a tree that can live for more than a millenium but is threatened today in its native Peruvian habitat,  plays a key role in fixing moisture and nitrogen into the desert soil and maintaining its fertility. By wiping out the trees to plant more cotton and corn, a civilization that flourished for centuries exposed itself to the desertification, soil erosion, and flash El Niño flooding that eventually led to its demise. For more info, you can check out the McDonald Institute’s archive for news clips and an interview with the doctor himself, or settle in for this excellent short documentary on the huarango: “The King of the Desert is Dying.”

The Nazca Tree geoglyph, a huarango?

With humans having cut down half the planet’s original forests, mostly in the second half of the twentieth century, and with 13 million hectares still being lost annually, the Nazca example should stand as a clear warning of the devastating affects deforestation and ecosystem destruction can have on human civilizations. Ecosystem destruction isn’t just the stuff of  treehuggers and captain planet fanatics anymore, it’s a threat to all humankind, as the Pentagon has duly noted. Let’s hope we can get our act together and figure out how to incentivize forest protection soon to keep our global ecosystem from going the way of Nazca’s so many years ago.

Mongo lookin pretty by the lines.

-Andy, Photos by Elliot



Cantagallo, Lima, Peru                                                                                                                             Jan., 2010

-By Andrew Whalen. Photos by Elliot Whalen.

In Peru, all roads lead to Lima. Schooling, jobs, and a Westernized ideal of progress have led millions to travel those roads from Peru’s interior to Lima – for better or worse. It’s an ideal that proves elusive for many indigenous and mestizo migrants. The blue jeans and knock-off Nikes come easy; it’s formal jobs and running water that are harder to come by.

I’ve heard Lima called a desert purgatory, a second-world Los Angeles, “Lima the Horrible,” and “Lima the Ugly.” Francisco Pizarro, Spain’s ruthless conqueror, founded the capital in a lush coastal valley beside the Rimac River in January 1535, during one of Lima’s fleeting, sun-burnt summers. It’s something Limeños still regret. The skies over Lima are uniformly overcast the remainder of the year, but humidity hardly ever gives way to rain.  The city sprawls across an arid desert, but the sun rarely shines. With no rain, a layer of dust and soot coats everything in town, and the smog emanating from Lima’s congested avenues has turned the coastal mist into a toxic cocktail. The Rimac’s green is now paved over, and shantytowns of half-built brick shacks stretch endlessly out into the surrounding desert. It’s this bundle of regret that prompted Ms. Alma Guillermoprieto to call Lima “proof that there are no knowable limits to what people will put up with.”

Granted, Guillermoprieto penned the phrase back in 1990, when the brutal Shining Path insurgency rained down daily car bombs on the capital city, and monthly inflation topped 400 percent. Since then, twin economic and gastronomical booms, and the virtual disappearance of the Shining Path from the capital, have made life quite pleasant in the comfortable seaside enclaves of Lima’s light-skinned elite. The phrase sticks with me, however, whenever I take a trip across town to Cantagallo, a squatter’s village of Amazon Indians in sight of Peru’s government palace. Cantagallo is proof that despite a decade of stability and record growth, little has changed for Peru’s other half.

While young for a Lima shantytown, dating to 2001, Cantagallo is commonplace in its poverty. Like the rest of the 1.3 million people in Lima whose homes receive no running water, Cantagallo residents pay exorbitant prices for trucks to deliver water by the barrel. They make due with generators for electricity, and slog across town through hours of traffic in rickety combivans to work as maids and gardeners for well-to-do families. Like the rest of Lima’s ever-proliferating slums, it reeks of rotting garbage and human waste. No, it’s not the living standards that make Cantagallo curious, but the people that choose to live here. Unlike the first wave of migrants to Lima – highland Quechua Indians who abandoned hardscrabble lives in the high Andes – Cantagallo’s residents come from the world’s most abundant, biodiverse forest. Indeed, if you only need one indicator of the sorry state of Peru’s Amazon rainforest, it’s the fact that hundreds of its natives are squatting illegally here on a sandy hill in a gloomy desert, downwind of their own refuse.

I met Charly Romas a few months after Peru’s “Amazonian Tiananmen,” as certain indigenous rights groups have come to call an ugly clash between Peruvian police and Indians near the northern city of Bagua that left 33 dead and one officer missing. The immediate cause of the protests was a packet of decrees aimed at easing indigenous control over their lands and loosening forestry laws to boost large-scale oil, mining, logging and agricultural investment in the jungle. Peru’s President Alan Garcia passed the decrees with special legislative powers granted to implement a free trade pact with the United States. The deeper roots of the conflict can be found here in Cantagallo, however, where some 500 Amazon Indians have migrated to gain access to education and jobs.

Charly, a short Shipibo Indian with a warm, earnest demeanor, round face, and spiked black hair, came to Lima in 2002 to complete high school and attend Lima’s public San Marcos university. Now 24, he is the president of the 250-strong Asociacion Interetnica de Estudiantes de la Amazonia Peruana, or Inter-ethnic Association of Peruvian Amazonian Students, and is preparing to launch a career as one of Peru’s first Amazon Indian lawyers. He does not mince words when discussing why 190 Shipibo Indians have abandoned his native state of Ucayali to live in Cantagallo.

“We have a lot of problems.  First off are the oil companies. In several communities they’ve severely damaged the environment. You can’t even fish anymore because the animals are dying off from toxic oil contamination. A second problem is rampant logging – illegal and transnational. After they are through ravaging the forest, the jungle floor is just dead earth – it takes 20 to 30 years for the forest to regenerate,” Charly says.

For Charly, the sorry state of Peru’s Amazon is due to the government’s failure to consult Indians about projects affecting their lands. Traditionally Lima’s elite has seen the jungle as a treasure trove of resources devoid of human settlement. The Amazon forest accounts for 60 percent of Peru’s territory, but only 350,000 of the country’s nearly 30 million people belong to an indigenous Amazonian ethnicity. Currently more than 70% of Peru’s Amazon rainforest is carved up into oil and natural gas exploration and drilling blocks, the rights over which are granted by Peru’s energy and mining ministry in Lima – without any prior consultation of the communities whose land sits atop the oil reserves.

In Peru, the state owns rights to subsoil fossil fuel and mineral resources, and one of the decrees that sparked last year’s protests would have removed already ignored restrictions on mining and oil exploration and drilling without consent of the communities that own the land. The decree – repealed after last year’s violence, along with three others – flew in the face of the U.N.’s 2007 Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples and the International Labour Organization’s Indigenous and Tribal Peoples Convention 169. The ILO has long found Peru remiss on its obligations under the convention, but it took last year’s political violence to force the government’s hand. The passage of a new law guaranteeing indigenous consultation rights has been hung up by the government’s decision to press charges against the leaders of Peru’s leading Amazon Indian confederation, AIDESEP, in the wake of the June violence, but a law is set to be debated in March.

Even a new law on consultation rights, however, won’t be enough to change the power dynamics in Peru’s Amazon rainforest. The U.N. declaration and the ILO’s Convention 169 only grant Indians the right to be consulted about projects, not the right to a veto of government contracts. Hundreds of indigenous communities are still fighting for the government to recognize their land with legal property titles; Peru’s Indians suffer poverty at twice the rate of their mestizo and European-descendent countrymen; and with substandard schools and limited finances to fund post-secondary education, it is nearly impossible for Indians to take a leading role as chemical or forestry engineers in the resource-led development of the Amazon that politicians in Lima envision.  “Oil companies bring in their own engineers and managers. They only hire us Indians to do peon work,” said Charly over a cup of masato, a traditional Amazonian drink of fermented yucca brought by his father from Pucallpa.

As a consequence, more Indians end up here, in Lima. Charly says first to arrive were he and some fellow youths looking to become the first in their families to attend university. Their families soon migrated as well, to support their children with tuition, food and living costs – some $200 a month for a student who has to pay his own board – and eventually to put their younger brothers and sisters into better primary and high schools than those in the jungle. But even with support from their families, the transition isn’t easy.

Charly says he and many of the students in his association have gone hungry to try to cover the cost of tuition and books. The government provides skimpy financial support to only 50 Amazon Indian students a year, and most students come from fishing, hunting, and subsistence farming families with little in the way of savings. Moving to the big city is a huge culture shock as well. Substandard schooling in the jungle means most students who come to Lima need help improving their Spanish – a second language for most, who grow up speaking one of Peru’s nearly 150 native languages – and getting up to speed with the new technologies of the classroom.

“It’s a huge shock to leave the jungle after high school for university in Lima,” says Charly’s uncle Abner Davila, a Shipibo artisan.  “If you don’t know how to use a computer, you’re nobody here.”

Worse than educational restraints, and a big reason they exist, is Peru’s worst-kept secret: a deep racist strain ingrained since its days as the seat of the Spanish vice-royalty in South America. Students who come to Lima from the highlands or jungle to attend school can be laughed at and belittled for often poor Spanish or funny accents, and scandals over nightclubs and posh beaches that illegally ban indigenous or dark-skinned Peruvians from their premises still pop up frequently in local newspapers and telecasts.

For Charly, his first experiences in Lima as a student are difficult to discuss. Gone is his self-confident delivery and knowing smile. He struggles for words.  “I suffered from discrimination,” he says shaking his head slowly, then pausing, and looking down, “or maybe it wasn’t discrimination. It’s just that life is really complicated in Lima. When you first get here you have no support from anyone.”  Pressed, he admits his peers from the coast treated him differently. “Unfortunately, in my case, that’s what happened. But little by little I overcome it. It was one of the stages of my life I had to deal with.”

Overcome it he has. The students’ association he currently leads now provides financial support and tutoring to new students arriving in Lima, and he’s set his sights on educating a new generation of indigenous leaders – this time, in the jungle. His dream is to open a university-level educational institute in his native Pucallpa to educate leaders from ethnicities across the Amazon about their rights, history, and environmental issues associated with oil drilling, mining and logging. He hopes to begin with a pilot class of 25 students this year, the idea being that the graduates will act as their tribes’ informed representatives in Peru’s ever-proliferating number of socio-environmental conflicts pitting communities against extractive industries.

“I miss the jungle, every day I’m here,” Charly says wistfully, gazing off eastward into the hazy dun of Lima’s foothills. “I’m only here for my education, I’ll be back in the jungle to get to work – and soon.”

Not everyone shares Charly’s enthusiasm about life in the jungle, however. When asked about where he sees himself in the future, Charly’s uncle, Abner Davila, speaks enthusiastically about a Cantagallo with electricity, running water, a road connecting it to the highway, and a bustling artisan market for tourists to buy hand-made Amazonian textiles and necklaces. When told that tourists aren’t likely to hike into Lima’s desert slums to buy Amazon jungle souvenirs, Abner is stunned silent. Frowning, he ticks off the reasons why going back to the jungle permanently isn’t an option: few tourist customers for Shipibo products, the renewed presence of Shining Path guerrillas, and poor schooling. The grizzled artisan says he loves the jungle, but he’s practical.

“Sufficient attention isn’t paid to our jungle frontiers” by the government, says Davila. “From what I see of my society, to progress, I believe we need a firm footing here in Lima.”

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